We are excited to announce our new line of trees in stock that are revolutionizing the way we plant trees. Our Legacy-Trees brand is by far the most superior product on the market when it comes to planting and selling trees. When compared to a traditional Ball & Burlap or Container Grown Tree our Legacy-Trees has them beat on both tree quality and planting efficiency.
Example of a step-by-step process for a traditional tree planting below. Notice the steps crossed out that is not needed with a Legacy tree and the steps remaining are all that is needed with the trees we have for sale. Note: Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have located all underground utilities prior to digging. (Call Diggers Hotline)
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. Remove excess soil from the top of the root ball prior to planting if the root flare is not visible. This is a silly step for Legacy-Trees because our Root Flare is the highlight of our trees and are present on all that we sell.
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Holes should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball. Digging a broad planting pit breaks up the surrounding soil and provides newly emerging tree roots room to expand. (Loosen Up the ball and roots before planting.) We dig a hole slightly large than our crate (yes our tree comes on a crate) and we plant the crate at ground level. We don’t have to touch our roots because they are already set.
- Remove the containers or cut away the wire basket. Inspect container tree root balls for circling roots. Straighten, cut, or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary. SKIP
- Place the tree at the proper height. Take care to dig the hole to the proper depth — and no more. The majority of a tree’s roots develop in the top 12 inches (30 cm) of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. In poorly drained or heavily clay soils, trees can be planted with the base of the trunk flare 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) above grade. When placing the tree in the hole, lift it by the root ball, not the trunk. We drop the crate in our hole and done.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm it is straight. Once planted, it is difficult to reposition the tree, so make sure its as best as you can before filling in. We can move our tree easily while positioning it in the hole.
- Fill the hole gently, but firmly. Note: Do Not Pack soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it. If the root ball is wrapped, carefully cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and/or wire from around the trunk and root ball to prevent girdling and to facilitate root growth. Fill the remainder of the hole keeping it not packed down. To help reduce air pockets, watering periodically while backfilling can help. Avoid fertilization at the time of planting. We don’t have much of a hole to fill back in as we don’t over dig with our design, we also water as a last step.
- Stake the tree in 3 directions to help stabilize the tree. (Reminder – packing the soil down is not the way to stabilize the tree). Compacted soil is bad for trees, so do not pack it down when backfilling, very important you do this and allow the tree to lean for a bit while you stake. Stakes may also offer protection against lawn mower damage and vandalism. 3 stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree upright and minimize injury to the trunk, yet still allow movement. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth. Another Laughable step for us, we do not have to stake down our Legacy-Trees the roots do that. We also make sure the soil is loose and never compacted.
- Mulch the base of the tree out as far as the drip line. Mulch is organic matter spread around the base of a tree to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce grass and weed competition. Common mulches include leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch (5- to 10-cm) layer is ideal. More than 4 inches (10 cm) may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. Piling mulch right up against the trunk of a tree may cause decay of the living bark. A mulch area, 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wide at the base of the tree, reduces moist bark conditions and prevents decay. This is not a step you can skip and is needed for any tree planted, this is also when we water the tree(s) we just planted.
- Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot, windy weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off as lower temperatures require less-frequent watering. This is another step that is very important and one we do offer as a 5-year warranty option.
Taking a close look at the 9-step process of planting a tree and how we have reduced almost half those steps down or removed them entirely, says we have a more efficient way to plant. This efficiency is only a side-affect though, of what the original purpose of this new design is based on and that is the root structure. Our Legacy-Trees have been planted from bare root into their crate with them naturally building their root structure and when planted those roots stay intact, Never SEVEERED, planted in the same crate it was grown in.
Balled and burlap trees lose a significant portion of their root system when dug up at the nursery. As a result, trees commonly exhibit what is known as “transplant shock.” Transplant shock is a state of slowed growth and reduced vitality following transplanting. Container trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling or kinked roots that must be cut. Proper site preparation, careful handling to prevent further root damage, and good follow-up care reduces transplant shock and promotes faster recovery. Legacy-Trees Do Not Have Transplant Shock and will put on growth the same year they are planted.